A succesful one I might add.
To be honest though it was a fairly simple conversion due to the Holley being taken off a previous conversion. So all parts were ready to go.
The only things I would've needed to purchase if i was starting from scratch is a square bore adapter plate, angled throttle linkage and some vacuum hose and maybe coolant hose and a few hose clips and screws and electrical wire and things
..... Check the photos to see what's needed.
We'll start with the main component, the carburettor. The Solex4A1 I'm replacing is actually fine. It works well and was recently raced. But since the application is an upcoming race car I wanted to try this spare Holley I've got which (fingers crossed), hopefully helps the M110 breathe better and give it some better acceleration.
The Holley replacement is an old squarebore 4bbl (4 equally sized barrels), 390CFM, 4160, p/n 0-8007. The Solex on the other hand is spreadbore (2 larger, 2 smaller barrels). The Holley pdf link
says not to use a square bore to spread bore adapter.
Stiff, I haven't got a hope of fashioning a square bore out of the stock manifold due to the way it's cast and machined. It's not one big flat surface that I can simply cut the middle from. Anyway, the adapter is thick and I reckon there's a bit of room for the fuel/air mix to get to where it's going without too much restriction. The adapter BTW has got "LYNX" cast into it and that's all I can tell you. No other numbers on there sorryREMOVAL OF THE SOLEX.
A view of the naked manifold with spredbore configuration.HOLLEY AND EXTRA BITS NEEDED
An underside comparison of the Solex and Holley. Not sure of the CFM of the Solex and after seeing the two together I wondered whether the conversion is actually worth it. Seems to rev harder when given full throttle but time will tell after a full test drive how effective the holley is in providing extra power. I wont know fuel economy as the car will be spending much of its time at wide open throttle anyway
Extra bits needed-
Angled throttle linkage
A wire connected to the (+) terminal of the coil then goes to the spade terminal of the electric choke.
A self made bracket for the throttle return spring needs to be manufactured and placed where shown.
The coolant hoses need to bypass the carburettor all together. Either by way of a short piece of copper tubing as shown or replace both hoses with a much longer one.
One squarebore to spreadbore adapter plate. This one is LYNX branded. 4 allen bolts go into the manifold and four bolts poke up through from the bottom so the Holley can be bolted down.
Some vacuum hose and a "T" piece to tap the vacuum off the manifold. The black hose then goes off to the fuel purge valve that regualtes fuel pressure to the carby and allows fuel to flow through the return line under low load conditions. I think that's how it works INSTALLING THE HOLLEY
Install adapter plate to soft mount that was under the Solex.
Coolant hose bypasses carburettor
Install Holley on studs and screw nuts on. Attach fuel line. I was unable to remove the sealing collet so I just slid the fuel line as far as it would go, slightly over the collet, then screwed the clamp up. no leaks.
Vacuum lines to vacuum switch that provides retard at idle were plugged. Emissions aren't a concern for this car but you could add another "T" to that other vac line I spoke of earlier. When I find a cap I'll put it over the retard connection of the distributors retard connection. There's another large vacuum connection off the side of the carb facing the engine that was capped some time ago and wont be used.
Vacuum line that goes to the fuel purge valve is attached running from that "T"connection I put in earlier.
Throttle linkage and return spring
Attach vacuum line to the vacuum advance port on the distributor. (middle of pic)
Lastly, don't forget to attach the electrical wire from the coil to the choke. No pic sorry.THE VIDEOS
The sound lags somewhat behind the footage for some reason but when it started it was really responsive.
First start attempt was a failure. The carb was empty and the fuel bowls needed to fill which I expected but the purge valve wasn't connected to a vacuum source either.http://www.youtube.com/v/KJkhjewIGwI&hl=en&fs=1
With the vacuum line to the purge valve connected. Eureka!!! But maybe the fuel bowls had filled by this time. I don't know. Time lapsed between first and second attempt was about 10mins. Flooding wasn't a cause of the non start first time round.http://www.youtube.com/v/FfilhCHfxPI&hl=en&fs=1
As the car warms up the electric choke is working, you can see it opening....slowly.http://www.youtube.com/v/-vHl_md6WWc&hl=en&fs=1
After the engine has fully warmed up I give it one more look over for fuel and coolant leaks then floor it a few times to check operation of the vacuum secondaries. You can see the gate of the secondarys' axle moving. The car needs to be under load to get them to be wide open, or I could possibly keep my foot on the pedal but not yet. I've got a rev limiting rotor in there and whilst it's brand new and still has it's counterwieght, I'm yet to hear it have an effect.http://www.youtube.com/v/EXBQw9lcsZY&hl=en&fs=1